Frequently Asked Questions

Yes. We service residential, commercial, industrial, and institutional projects across Toronto and the GTA. Scope, scheduling, and systems are adjusted based on use and performance requirements.

Yes. Most projects begin with a site review to confirm conditions, substrates, access, and sequencing. This ensures accurate pricing and avoids scope gaps.

Yes. All work is completed by insured, WSIB-compliant crews operating under site-specific safety procedures.

Several factors can cause epoxy to remain soft, sticky, or fail to harden:

  • Incorrect mix ratio: Use the exact resin-to-hardener ratio by volume.
  • Incomplete mixing: Scrape sides and bottom during mixing for complete
    blending.
  • Temperature too low: Below 60°F (16°C) can stall curing; warm the area to
    80°F (27°C) to restart curing.
  • Using only resin or hardener: Both components are required to cure.
  • Improper pouring: Do not scrape container sides into your pour to avoid
    unmixed material contamination.
    If epoxy does not cure, remove it completely before reapplying.
  • Not fully cured epoxy: Bonding requires fully cured layers.
  • Resin starvation: Porous surfaces absorb epoxy; pre-wet bonding areas.
  • Contaminated surfaces: Sand and clean surfaces thoroughly.
  • Insufficient bonding area: Strengthen with fillets or scarf joints.
  • Over-clamping: Use moderate pressure to maintain bond integrity.
  • Moisture exposure: Humidity or condensation causes cloudiness.
  • Air entrapment: Applying too thickly or rolling aggressively traps air.
    Use gentle heat to remove moisture and apply in thin coats in warm conditions.

This is amine blush, a normal water-soluble byproduct. Wash with water before sanding and recoating.

Yes. Color change from moisture exposure in metal containers does not affect performance, only appearance.

  • Pre-warm resin and hardener
  • Use a fast-curing hardener for low temperatures.
  • Maintain workspace temperatures above 60°F (16°C) for effective curing.

If the fairing mix is too soft:

  • Add more filler for peanut butter consistency.
  • Allow partial curing before sanding vertical surfaces.
  • Ensure epoxy is fully cured.
  • Remove amine blush and sand before coating.
  • Confirm compatibility of your finish with your epoxy system.
  • Mixing large quantities.
  • Using fast hardeners in warm conditions.
  • Applying thick layers.
    To prevent overheating, mix small batches, pour into shallow trays, and apply in thin layers
  • Bubbles: Caused by entrapped air or substrate outgassing.
  • Pinholes: Surface tension pulling epoxy away before curing.
  • Fish-eyes: Surface contamination or inadequate abrasion.
    Preventive actions:
  • Apply seal coats on porous surfaces.
  • Apply as temperatures fall.
  • Sand and clean surfaces with solvent before coating.
  • Use thin layers and tipping off with a brush to release bubbles.

Maintain 70°F–80°F (21°C–27°C) for workspace and materials:

  • Below 70°F: Slows curing, thickens epoxy
  • Above 80°F: Speeds curing, risk of overheating or warping.

Yes. Surfaces must be clean, dry, and free of contaminants. Sand as needed, remove dust, and wipe with a lint-free cloth dampened with denatured alcohol. Avoid tack cloths.

Yes. A seal coat prevents bubbles during your flood coat:

  1. Clean and dry the surface.
  2. Apply a thin seal coat to seal pores.
  3. Allow to cure fully.
  4. Sand lightly and clean before flood coating
  1. Measure resin and hardener accurately.
  2. Stir 1–2 minutes, scraping sides and bottom.
  3. Transfer to a clean container, mix another 1–2 minutes.
  4. Let sit 1–2 minutes to allow bubbles to rise.
  5. Pour immediately; do not exceed one-gallon batches.

Use:

  • Polypropylene (PP) cups
  • Wax-free paper cups
  • Metal cans
  • HDPE containers

Avoid:

  • Polystyrene (PS) containers (may melt from heat during curing).

Yes, if prepared properly:

  • Degrease with acetone.
  • Sand with 80-grit.
  • Degrease again and apply epoxy immediately to prevent re-oxidation.

Epoxy will not adhere well to:

  • High-Density Polyethylene (HDPE)
  • Polypropylene (PP)
  • Polystyrene (PS)
    Test new substrates to confirm adhesion before your project.
  • Prevent: Use painter’s tape under edges and peel before full cure.
  • If cured: Sand or grind drips off cleanly.

Yes, but:

  • Use water-based stains and ensure they are fully dry.
  • Test compatibility using a cross-hatch adhesion test before large pours.

Yes, to remove imperfections or adjust gloss:

  1. Sand (220, 400, 600, 1000, up to 4000 grit).
  2. Buff with heavy scratch remover.
  3. Polish with fine scratch remover for a high-gloss finish.
  • Uncured epoxy:
  • Hardeners: Use warm, soapy water.
  • Resins: Use denatured alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, or acetone.
  • Cured epoxy: Requires sanding or grinding.

Yes. Possible reactions:

  • Skin rashes
  • Respiratory irritation (in severe cases)
    Safety Measures:
  • Wear nitrile gloves and protective clothing.
  • Wash skin immediately after contact.
  • Use respirators in confined spaces.
  1. Allow epoxy to cure until sandable.
  2. Sand with 120–220 grit.
  3. Clean with denatured alcohol.
  4. Apply a thin epoxy layer to fill imperfections.
  5. Let cure, sand lightly, and apply a final flood coat.

Use a heat gun or blow torch carefully over the mark to soften the epoxy, allowing it to self-level and release the mark without recoating.

  • Too cold: Thickens epoxy.
  • Too warm: Cures too fast, reducing working time.
  • Maintain 70°F–80°F (21°C–27°C) for optimal flow
  • For low spots, apply additional epoxy and use gentle heat to assist leveling.
  • Temperature and viscosity differences affect metering.
  • Measurement inaccuracies can lead to leftovers.
  • Use consistent mixing procedures and careful measurement to reduce waste.

Two effective methods:

  • Overcoating: Sand with 180–220 grit, clean, and apply a thin fresh epoxy layer.
  • Buffing/Polishing: Sand progressively to 4000 grit, then polish using heavy and fine scratch removers to restore clarity and gloss.

Yes, epoxy can be tinted using:

  • Pigment pastes or powders
  • Translucent dyes
  • Pre-tinted color packs designed for your system
    ✅ Always test color concentration before full pours to ensure even results.

Epoxy can be used outdoors but:

  • It is not UV stable and may yellow over time.
  • Use a UV-resistant urethane topcoat over epoxy for outdoor durability.
  • Ensure proper surface preparation to handle outdoor expansion and contraction.
  • Initial cure: 12–24 hours (light use, sanding possible)
  • Full chemical cure: 5–7 days, depending on temperature, humidity, and layer thickness
    ✅ Advise customers not to place heavy objects or perform heavy cleaning until full cure for maximum durability

Yes, for deep pours or thick layers:

  • Allow each layer to reach a firm gel state (typically 4–8 hours) before pouring the next.
  • Lightly sand between layers if the previous layer is fully cured.
  • This ensures proper bonding between layers while managing heat buildup.

Blushing appears as a milky or greasy surface film:

  • Caused by moisture reacting with uncured epoxy amines Fix: Wash with warm water and a scrub pad before sanding and recoating.

Epoxy can yellow due to:

  • UV exposure (sunlight or strong indoor UV)
  • Heat exposure during or after curing
  • Using fast hardeners which may discolor over time To prevent:
    ✅ Use UV-stabilized epoxy
    ✅ Apply a UV-resistant topcoat for long-term clarity

We install porcelain, ceramic, large-format tile, natural stone, mosaic, and specialty tiles for floors, walls, bathrooms, kitchens, and commercial spaces.

Absolutely. Proper prep is critical. We handle floor leveling, crack repair, waterproofing membranes, and backer systems before tile installation.

Yes. We provide tile repairs, removals, and re-installations, including correcting underlying substrate issues that caused the failure.

Yes. We use commercial-grade setting materials and installation methods suitable for retail, restaurants, lobbies, and washrooms.

Yes. We install solid hardwood, engineered hardwood, and specialty wood flooring systems based on site conditions and performance needs.

Engineered hardwood can be installed over concrete when moisture conditions are suitable. Solid hardwood typically requires a wood subfloor system.

Yes. We specialize in floor leveling and substrate correction to ensure flatness, stability, and long-term performance.

Yes. We provide full removal, disposal, and surface preparation prior to new installation.

Modern laminate flooring is highly durable and suitable for residential and light-commercial spaces when installed correctly.

In some cases, yes. The existing surface must be flat, stable, and compatible. We assess this during the site visit.

Yes. Proper underlayment and vapor barriers are installed based on manufacturer requirements and site conditions.

We install LVP (Luxury Vinyl Plank), LVT (Luxury Vinyl Tile), sheet vinyl, and commercial vinyl systems.

Most vinyl products are water-resistant or waterproof, making them ideal for basements, kitchens, retail spaces, and multi-unit buildings.

Yes. We install commercial-grade vinyl flooring designed for high traffic, durability, and easy maintenance.

Yes. We handle removal of tile, VCT, laminate, hardwood, adhesives, and coatings as part of our scope.

Traffic toppings are multi-layer resin systems designed to protect concrete surfaces exposed to vehicle and pedestrian traffic, typically in parking garages, ramps, balconies, and podium decks.

Traffic toppings are multi-layer resin systems designed to protect concrete surfaces exposed to vehicle and pedestrian traffic, typically in parking garages, ramps, balconies, and podium decks.

Yes. These systems are designed to provide waterproofing, crack-bridging, slip resistance, and durability.

Installation timelines depend on surface condition, system type, and weather. Most projects are completed in phases to maintain access where required.

Light foot traffic is typically allowed within 24–48 hours. Vehicle traffic follows after full cure, depending on the system specified.

We offer selective interior demolition, flooring removal, concrete demolition, and partial structural removals for residential and commercial projects.

We specialize in interior and selective demolition, especially where precision and coordination with flooring or renovation work is required.

Yes. Flooring removal and surface demolition are often integrated into our flooring and coating projects for efficiency and cost control.

Yes. All demolition debris is removed from site and disposed of responsibly, with recycling where possible.

We plan demolition work to minimize disruption, especially in occupied or commercial environments, and coordinate schedules accordingly.